Up-cycling has always been a way of life in India and the art form ‘Kantha Stitch’ is the best example of this. The word Kantha itself is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Kontha’ which means rags and the whole art form originates from the concept of putting rags into good use.
Tracing the History of the Kantha Stitch
In ancient India, producing textile was quite cost and labor intensive and also had a huge water foot print. As such, people tried their best to make the best use of the available textile and even up-cycled them to make ‘kanthas’ or quilts when they could not be worn anymore. Several worn out pieces of fabric were put together in layers and stitched with simple running stitches to make soft quits that could be used as comforters in the winters or even as bed-spreads. With time, women started making elaborate patterns and shapes using the simple running stitch and thus evolved the art form of ‘Kantha Stitch’. This simple yet beautiful art form is highly treasured in today’s global fashion industry, thanks to the efforts of notable designers. However, there was a time when this art form was slowly dying out and losing relevance. Rabindranath Tagore’s daughter in-law Protima Devi, who was also an artist par excellence spear-headed the revival of the Kantha Stitch in the 1940s as a part of the rural re-construction programme.
The Kantha Hub of Bengal
Nanoor, which is at a distance of about twenty two kilometers from Shantiniketan has over the years emerged as the hub of this art form. Over two thousand women artisans from this village are engaged in Kantha making. Right from beautiful sarees with intricate Kantha embroidery to utility products, people visiting Nanoor can get it all here.
Exploring this art form
Many art enthusiasts, designers as well as boutique owners also come and stay in homestays in Bolpur and then drive down to Nanoor to spend time with these artisans and understand their art as well as way of life. If you too are fascinated by this art form and want to know more about it along with the history and culture of Shantiniketan, you must stay in Bolpur for at least a week. And to enjoy a comfortable stay in Tagore’s poetic abode, you must book your stay in Panthashala which is the best guest house near Visva Bharati and is known for its world-class hospitality.
Evolution of the Kantha Stitch
The Kantha Stitch is considered to be over a thousand years old and even has mentions in the pre-Vedic literature. However, what you see today is an evolved and organized art form that also appeals to the modern sensibilities. Today, this traditional art form is even sub-divided into various categories, based on the patterns made with the running stitch. The categories are as follows:
Running Kantha:
This is the simplest and the earliest known form of the Kantha stitch but is further categorized into two forms based on the patterns. One that is highly valued and can be commonly seen in most Bengali homes is the Nakshi Kantha. The unique storytelling and patterns that can be seen in Nakshi Kantha designs make them so valuable. The other common form is the Par Tola Kantha which has geometric patterns and has its origins in the Islamic art.
Lik or Anarasi Kantha:
This form of Kantha stitch is mostly practiced in parts of North Bangladesh and draws its name from the unique patterns that it creates.
Lohori Kantha:
Also known as the Wave Kantha, this art form is also popular in Bangladesh. This stitch is also divided into Soja, Kautar Khupi and Borfi Kantha based on the patterns used.
Sujni Kantha:
Practiced in Bangladesh as well as Bihar, this form mostly uses undulating floral and vine patterns.
There is also the Cross-stitch or Carpet Kantha which was introduced to India by the British.
You need not be a designer to appreciate the beauty of this veritable art form as every piece of coverlet, quilt, saree or clutch that is adorned with the Kantha stitch has a unique story to tell. And each piece is so beautiful and so meticulously crafted that you are bound to fall in love with this art form.
If you plan to buy your first Kantha stitch saree or dress material from Shantiniketan on your next visit to the place, you may want to shop from Amar Kutir or even from the Sonajhuri Haat where the artisans directly sell their wares to the buyers.
While the Kantha stitch is definitely one unique art form that you can see in Shantiniketan, there are several others that are unique to the place and were brought to Shantiniketan by Tagore. You can explore all these beautiful art forms on your subsequent visits to Shantiniketan.